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Ancient traditions live on in one Chinese town

Posted: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 11:33 AM by Jen Brown
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From Karen Trosset, TODAY producer

Lijiang, China, is not just beautiful, it is an awe-inspiring glimpse into life in ancient China. First settled some 800 years ago, it is located deep in China's southwest. Lijiang boasts the sprawling snow mountains and one of the country's deepest gorges -- the breathtaking Tiger Leaping Gorge -- but its people and their culture seem ripped from the pages of history books.

Image: Lijiang, China
Robert Colvill

Lijiang is home to 25 of China's ethnic minorities. Its very heart is the "Naxi Kingdom," a group dating back centuries that still practices ancient customs and follows its Dongba religion, a belief that man and nature are brothers. They use the only remaining hieroglyphic language left in the world. 

And you can't miss them. They still wear traditional clothing, Naxi women wear wide-sleeved loose gowns with jackets and long trousers, tied with richly decorated belts at the waist. They wrap large black cotton turbans around their heads.

Image: Naxi women in Lijiang, China
Robert Colvill
Naxi women wander the streets of Lijiang, China.

Their simple way of life still makes up life in this town, where it is common to see little old ladies washing their vegetables in the town well. Others are hard at work on an ancient loom, weaving scarves for sale in the market, or on a street corner selling vegetables, fresh-picked from their farms.

In order to paint a picture of this way of life, I will share with you my Friday morning.  I was standing on a street corner in Baisha, the neighboring Naxi village, sipping my morning coffee and admiring the quaint old-fashioned town square.  I turned around, and making its way past me was a massive herd of cows. Leading the way was an elderly farmer, wearing traditional ancient garb. He shepherds all of the town's cows through the square every day at the same time to the neighboring fields.

All I could think was what would be the equivalent of this in the United States? If Paul Revere, dressed in colonial garb, rode his horse through Faneuil Hall and nobody thought twice about it? And it was normal? And it wasn't Halloween? Inconceivable.

The most striking aspect of this way of life is that a bustling modern city, "New Lijiang," is just beyond Old Lijiang's borders. Discos, restaurants, even KFC loom like a dark shadow over the ancient town, almost like a beacon of the trials and tribulations of western ways. One can see why the United Nations recognized the preciousness of Lijiang and named it a World Heritage Site in 1997, helping to preserve this historic site. It also helped turn Lijiang into a major tourist destination in China. Despite crowds and notoriety that threaten the ancient way of life here, there is a strong effort by the Naxi and the government to nurture this culture and preserve it in modern times.

I hope they prevail.

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Comments

I am of Chinese heritage and have been trying to follow your daily segments on China and the Olympics.
I found your story on the Lost Kingdom, I found it very interesting ... it's good to know that there is still some parts of China that are holding to the old traditional ways.  There is something to be learned from the old ways (esp. the skills and talents) and when they are gone, we loose part of who we are. I hope you will keep your segments on Beijing and China on line for a while... I missed a lot of it and would like to view more.  Thank you for coverage Beijing,China and the Olympics it's been wonderful ... and of course enjoy Matt, Meridith, Ann and Al.  JC ..Michigan
Beautiful--Wonderful
Wonderful story. Wonderful country, Thank you!
Great, interesting story.  The video is fantastic.  Sure do hope they can keep this cultural treasure alive.  We are in too much of a hurry in our modern world.  Glad to see that some people are trying to preserve a beautiful gentler life.  
I've been to Lijiang many times, Old Town is beautiful.  The Naxi people are very friendly.  What is not show is the poverty in the rural areas!

Black Dragon Pool Park is really that beautiful.  


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