Paro, Bhutan--Pant. Pant. Gasp. Gasp.
Posted: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 8:45 AM by Jaclyn Levin
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Where in the World
(By Kerry Sanders, NBC News Correspondent)
Paro, Bhutan—Pant. Pant. Gasp. Gasp.
I’m breathless, and so is everyone around me, tourists that is.
It’s not just the spectacular view that’s stolen our breath: It’s the steep hike at this altitude.
The Bhutanese are used to this thin air, and thankfully they’re politely not laughing at us. The climb to Tigers Nest is a challenge, especially for a flat-lander who lives at sea level like I do. This Buddhist monastery sits at 11,000 feet. The only way to get here is a long, narrow, well worn, mostly dirt path. The hike up begins at around 8,500 feet.
If there is one must-stop for every tourist who comes to Bhutan, Tigers Nest is it. But if you’re coming here, consider yourself in rare company: last year (2006) only 18,000 tourists were given visas to travel to Bhutan.
Legend goes, in the 8th century, Guru Rinpoche, this nation's founding Buddhist monk, flew to this way way way out-of-the-way spot on the back of a tigress. He stayed in a cave for three months, meditating. When he emerged, it’s said he converted the Bhutanese in the Paro valley to Buddhism. Previously, they worshiped animals.
The few guidebooks suggest the hike up and down to Tigers Nest will take about four hours. WRONG! Unless you are training for a marathon, or you happen to live in the Colorado Rockies, and don’t own a car, this trek will take much longer.
Thankfully, we were climbing with a full NBC News team, so with the heavy camera gear, and the endless “Kodak picture spots,” there were plenty of excuses to stop.
I’ll admit it, more than once, I lingered at a spot along the trail, snapping a picture, quietly encouraging NBC Cameraman Kyle Eppler to set up his camera and tripod for “one more perfect shot.”
If you follow my logic, those 10 minutes of his set-up were 10 minutes to catch my breath.
Today Show Producer Amanda Avery, a native low-lander from Louisiana, and Rupert Barker, an NBC editor from London, calculated our hike up and back: 9 hours.
YIKES! A far cry from the guidebooks alleged “four hour walk” to Tigers Nest.
It’s estimated as many as 100,000 locals and tourists make the hike each year. We saw at most 50 people during our all day journey.
I met Mary Perkins from Charlestown, Mass., on the route up. As we stood there together, slightly more than half way to our destination, looking across the valley at the Tigers Nest, she choked up. Mary Perkins, a 46-year old investment advisor began to cry. She couldn’t explain it. Overcome with the beauty and perhaps exhaustion, she was humbled by what had been built atop this granite mountain.
If you’re not up for the entire hike and you still want to go, there is one option: ride a pony. You won’t get all the way to Tigers Next on horseback, but you’ll get close.
A few tips from my trip:
- Start early. We began at 7 a.m..
- Bring a small backpack with bottle water and a jacket. Half way up there’s a spot to get more water, tea and food.
- Wear comfortable shoes that can grip loose soil and sand. There are some tough grades where you will lose your footing.
- Take a walking cane. You don’t need it on the way up, but on the way down it’ll keep you from tumbling when your feet slip. No matter how sure-footed you are, your feet will slide out from under you several times. The canes are offered at most local hotels at no charge.
- Bring a camera. But understand, no photos are allowed inside: too bad, of the many alters I’ve visited in Bhutan, the one in Tigers Nest is the most spectacular.
Finally, the burn you’ll feel in your legs the day after is all worth it. Tigers Nest is simply spectacular.
